If you plan to make candles in your kitchen, you will need to set up a double boiler on top of the stove. Double boiling is a cooking technique used to melt ingredients that would be ruined if overheated (e.g. chocolate). Wax is kind of like chocolate. If you scorch it, it will smell bad. It is also dangerous to heat wax above a certain temperature (the “flashpoint”). The double boiler method will help you slowly and safely melt wax.
If you’re looking for a faster way to melt wax, you should check out 3 Ways to Melt Candle Wax. Or, you can keep reading for a detailed step-by-step guide to setting up a double boiler.
How To Set Up a Double Boiler
The double boiler method for candle making looks a little different than for cooking, but the concept is the same. Just place the ingredient that you want to melt (the wax) inside of a metal pitcher. This gets placed inside of a large pot of simmering water. The heat is applied to the wax indirectly so that it can melt gradually without overheating.
Here is the process in 6 easy steps:
1. Place a large pot on the stove.
Use a pot that is wide enough to hold the pitcher with some gaps around the sides. I recommend buying a pot specifically for candle making rather than using one that you have in your kitchen. You don’t need anything fancy. I got mine at a thrift store for a few bucks. If you plan to make a lot of candles, it will eventually get wax inside of it and should not be used to cook food.
2. Place a pitcher inside of the pot.
You need to place a heat-safe container inside of the pot. The type of container that I recommend is a metal pitcher. I’d suggest getting one that has measurements on the inside because it’s helpful for gauging how much wax you have left to pour. I’d also look for one that is tall enough to prevent the water from the pot from splashing inside and ruining the wax.
NOTE: For cooking, double boilers usually have a bowl inside of the pot. I do not recommend this for candle making because it would be hard to pour from without spilling. Get something with a handle that you can grab and a spout that you can pour from.
3. Add candle wax to the pitcher.
Fill the pouring pitcher with wax. If you don’t know how much wax to use in your candle jar, read this! It will also help you calculate how much fragrance oil to use.
4. Add a couple inches of water to the pot.
Do not fill the pot all the way up. You want to avoid getting water in the melted wax because that will ruin your candle. The water level should be pretty low just in case it starts boiling aggressively and splashing out of control.
5. Clip a thermometer to the pitcher.
You will need to monitor the temperature to know when to add additional ingredients like fragrance oils and/or dye. I recommend using one with a clip so that you can attach it to the side of the pitcher. Then you won’t have to pick it up and dip it into the wax every time you need to check the temperature. Continuously monitoring the temperature is essential.
6. Turn on the burner.
Turn on the heat and bring the water to a gentle boil. I like to start out on medium heat until the water starts bubbling slightly. Then I turn it down to low until the wax melts completely. If the water starts to boil too vigorously, add a little more water to calm it down (or lower the heat setting on the burner).
Making a Candle with a Double Boiler
Once you have the double boiler set up, you can move on to the candle making process…
1. Heat the wax until it melts completely.
- Maintain a simmer, not a rolling boil. If it starts to boil hard, add a little more water or lower the heat.
- Pay attention to two temperatures: the melting point and the flashpoint. These temperatures vary by wax type. Look at the melting point guidelines for whichever wax type you’ve chosen. Most require heating to between 160 and 185 °F. You should also know the flashpoint – the temperature above which it becomes dangerous to heat the wax. Don’t go above this or you’ll be playing with fire!
- The time it takes to melt completely will depend on: wax type and amount. Soft wax types like soy will melt faster than hard wax types like paraffin and beeswax. Higher melting point = longer time to melt.
2. Add fragrance oil and/or dye at 185°F and turn off the burner.
- At 185°F, the fragrance oil and dye can bind with the wax. You can turn off the heat after you add these ingredients because you won’t need to continue warming the wax.
- Stir slowly! If you stir too aggressively, you will introduce air bubbles. These can show up on the surface of your candle later and ruin the appearance. I like to use a silicone spatula to stir because it’s easier to clean than a wooden spoon. Once the wax hardens, you can peel it right off.
3. Remove the pitcher from the heat and let the wax cool down to its pouring temperature.
- When you’re done stirring, remove the pitcher from the double boiler. Don’t pour the candle right away! You need to let this cool down slightly before you pour.
- Before you pour, dry the bottom of the pitcher so that you don’t drip any water into the candle.
- Let the wax cool down to its optimal pouring temperature. If you pour too hot, you’ll get a dip or a sink hole. If you pour too cool, you’ll get jump lines (white lines on the side of the candle). Most candle supply companies will indicate the optimal pour temperature on their website or on the wax’s packaging. Getting the right pour temperature also involves a lot of trial and error. Today I’m pouring a soy wax candle at 155. If I were making a paraffin or a beeswax candle, I would pour at a higher temperature. It varies by wax type so again, check the information provided by your supplier!
4. Pour the wax.
- Pour into the center of the candle jar slowly. Don’t dump the wax in all at once.
- If you are worried about sink holes, reserve some wax for a second pour. I go into detail about this technique for preventing sink holes in a separate post, but here’s the quick version! After you pour, put the pitcher back in the double boiler for a few minutes to warm it up slightly. Then do a second small pour to fill in any sink holes that would form from the contraction of the wax as it cools.
5. Wait for the candle to cure.
- Let it cool down for several hours before you do the finishing touches – trimming the wick to ¼”, adding a label, etc. I like to wait at least 12 hours.
- Keep waiting for a few more days! As tempting as it is to burn the candle right away, most candles need to cure for several days before they are burned. This gives the fragrance oil time to fully bind with the wax. If you’re willing to be patient, your candle will have a better scent throw. Trust me!
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are a few more things to know about the double boiler method:
How can I melt wax without a double boiler?
If you plan to make large batches of candles, I would recommend a wax melter. They come in a wide variety of sizes (and prices). The larger ones (above a 25 pound capacity) will cost you over $150, but the smaller ones (5-10 pound capacity) can be found in the $50-$100 range.
If you plan to make small batches of candles (or want a smaller piece of equipment), I would recommend a wax melter pot. It’s just a wax melter with a handle and a spout so that you can pour directly from the melter into the candle jar. These typically have the capacity to hold about 2-4 pounds of wax. You can easily find one for less than $50.
Is the double boiler method easier than using a wax melter?
In my opinion, the double boiler method is harder than using a wax melter. With a melter, all you have to do is add the wax and turn the dial. A double boiler is not hard to set up, but it does require more babysitting. You have to closely monitor how hard the water is boiling and if it is getting too hot, there is more than one variable you have to pay attention to – the heat level and the water level. I also find that I can melt wax faster with a wax melter than with the double boiler method.
What happens if water gets in the melted wax?
If you make a candle with water contaminated wax, the candle will have a pocket of water inside of it. The water will sink to the bottom of the candle because water is more dense than wax. You may not see any issues on the surface, but this will affect the performance of the candle once it burns down to the water pocket.
How do I clean up after candle making?
While you might be making candles in your kitchen, you should never wash your tools in the sink or run them through the dishwasher. The wax will clog your pipes! Instead, here’s what you should do:
OPTION 1: Soak up melted wax with paper towels, then dispose of them in the trash can. Use a second paper towel with rubbing alcohol to wipe the tool clean. Right after you’re done making candles (while the tools are still hot), wipe away leftover wax with a paper towel. If the wax has already hardened, blast the tool with a heat gun (or a hair dryer) to re-melt the wax so that you can wipe it off.
OPTION 2: Use boiling water. You can pour boiling water into the pitcher. You can also soak any wax covered tools in boiling water. The hardened wax will melt and float to the surface. To dispose of the waxy water – wait for it to cool down. Then, pour it through a strainer lined with either a paper towel or a coffee filter. The wax will stay in the paper towel or coffee filter which you can now throw in the trash. The water will be safe to dispose of down the drain.
Again, wax should never go down the drain and any tools that wax has touched should never be re-used for food!
And here’s a few tips For easy cleanup!
- Use a silicone spatula to stir wax. Cleaning the spatula is as easy as peeling away the hardened wax.
- Place silicone mats on your workspace to catch spills. Again, all you have to do is scrape off the wax.
- Invest in a heat gun if you don’t already have one. It makes re-melting leftover wax very easy!
More Candle Making Resources!
I also created a tutorial on how to make the perfect scented candle. It is super detailed and beginner friendly!
And don’t forget to bookmark my fragrance oil calculator for an easy way to calculate exactly how much wax and fragrance oil to use in any candle.
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